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At sealskin sewing workshop, women hone skills, reconnect with Indigenous traditions

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Long-revered as a wellspring of warmth and nutrition, seal — and its myriad uses — was a key cornerstone in Susie Zettler’s traditional on-the-land lifestyle growing up in Pangnirtung.

Harvested meat was dried and shared. Extracted oils fueled the qulliq. Sewn sealskin clothing protected the North’s Inuit and Inuvialuit from an unforgiving cold.
Nothing went to waste.

Years later, the quintessential marine mammal remains an “important part” of Zettler’s life, her seamstressing and her identity as a “proud Inuk.”

She was one of eight women — artisans and craftspeople — who gathered in Yellowknife’s Centre Square Mall for a three-day sealskin sewing workshop from March 2 to March 4 — led by Indigenous fashion designer D’Arcy Moses and dubbed “Nattiq Sealebration” — as part of the annual Naka Festival.

“(The workshop) is amazing,” said Zettler, familiarizing herself with a newly-introduced sewing machine.

Departing from her usual hand stitching, Susie Zettler, who relied on seal meat and skin growing up in Pangnirtung, tries her hand at a sewing machine earlier this week in Yellowknife's Centre Square Mall. Brendan Burke/NNSL Media.

“We’re getting to know each other. It’s like we're on a date,” she laughed.

Zettler is used to stitching sealskin by hand, but she’s trying to branch out.
That’s the point of the workshop.

Supported by Fisheries and Oceans Canada and presented by NWT Arts — a Department of Industry, Tourism and Investment program — the sessions sought to hone the skills of the participating sewers, with the ultimate aim of producing high-quality, affordably-priced and ready-for-the-modern-market pieces, including bracelets, belts, mitts and more.

For Karen Wright-Fraser, originally from Inuvik, the workshops offered much more than artistic guidance and industry insight.

They provided a space for women, many of whom were disconnected from their Indigenous roots due to colonization, to share advice, materials and support.

“It’s nice to connect with like-minded women” said Wright-Fraser. “We often sew in solitude at home, but when we come together like this, we get to share stories; teach each other our own techniques. We all teach each other and it’s precious."

Karen Wright-Fraser admires her in-progress wristband, made from sealskin and bison leather and adorned with beads. Due to the residential school system, Wright-Fraser says she, and other women, were robbed of the right to be handed down traditional sewing techniques from their mothers and grandmothers. Brendan Burke/NNSL photo.

“Grateful” for the workshop, she added that, compared to Yukon and Nunavut, there are few opportunities to develop professionally as a sealskin seamstress or artisan in the NWT.
Calling her work “therapeutic,” Wright-Fraser said the Nattiq Sealebration has helped her reconnect — and reclaim — her past, and her Indigenous identity.

“Because of the history of the residential school system, some of our mothers and grandmothers did not pass (sealskin sewing). We did not have that privilege,” said Wright-Fraser.

Wright-Fraser said that’s why it’s important to pass down the art form down to future generations. She’s already seen an interest among youth — social media savvy-young people are seeing inspiring designs online, and endeavouring to learn the practice on their own.

Indigenous fashion designer and workshop instructor D’Arcy Moses in action. Brendan Burke/NNSL photo.

Designer and workshop instructor D’Arcy Moses said he’s been seeing the same thing: traditional Indigenous clothing is increasingly catching on with young people.

Surrounded by beads, bison leather and sealskin — unmistakable in its colour and sheen, Moses is all about fostering creativity.

“We’re just here to create. What more could you ask for?”

Participants presented their finished products at the NWT Arts Market on Thursday and Friday.

 

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